The Ultimate Plant Propagation Guide 

 March 14, 2022

By  admin

Did you know that plants can be propagated by cutting them into smaller parts, plopping each piece in dirt or moist soil and rooting it? It’s a simple process, but one of the most effective ways to cultivate new plant life. Here is everything you need to do if you want your houseplants to have an abundant garden bed.,

The “Ultimate Plant Propagation Guide” is a comprehensive guide to help you learn when to plant out cuttings. It also includes information on how to best take care of your plants once they have been planted.

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Consider propagating your old plants if you’re seeking for a quick and inexpensive approach to obtain new plants.

Propagation is an asexual process in which a plant is created that is a clone of its parent plant, or genetically identical to it.

Plant propagation methods and instruments range from division to stem cutting, leaf cutting, and a variety of other techniques. The strategy you choose will be determined by the kind of plant you want to propagate as well as the amount of work and time you want to devote to the process.


Plants are remarkable in that each cell may mimic all of the functions and components of the whole plant.

You may start a new plant by taking a cutting of a stem or leaf and putting it in the right circumstances.

Start with a “mother” plant or a healthy stock plant. This plant should have many of stems so that removing one for cutting does not harm the plant.


A typical way for propagating ornamental plants and woody shrubs is by cutting the stem. This method is also beneficial to houseplants.

Houseplants are simple to grow.

When doing so, look for a stem that is free of insects, illness, and flower buds. Then, using a sterile, sharp knife, make a clean 45-degree angle incision to expand the rooting area.

Cuttings should be three to six inches long, but shorter for smaller plants, and should contain the top of the stem as well as at least three pairs of leaves.

Clean off the lowest layer of leaves, which will generate the new roots, and immerse that end in the rooting gel.

The gel helps to seal the injured plant tissue and encourages the formation of new roots.

Place your freshly cut and anointed plant in a shallow pot filled with damp perlite, vermiculite, or any other soilless potting mix after this is completed.

Before you put the cutting in the container, create a small hole in it so the rooting solution doesn’t rub off on the damaged stem.

Keep your fresh cuttings away of direct sunlight and in a warm, brilliantly lighted environment. Increased humidity benefits a number of cuttings.

Place the plant in a transparent plastic bag to generate a micro greenhouse effect and to enhance moisture.

Allow no plastic to get into contact with your plants! Mayonnaise jars, plastic soda pop bottles, and milk cartons may also be utilized as clippings holders.

Replant your cuttings in a separate container with damp, not wet, soil after you notice formed roots on them – this might take days or months.

Gently pull on the plants to see whether they have roots or not; if they come out easily, they aren’t ready. They’re ready to be repotted if you meet any resistance.

Until the young plants are well established, keep an eye on the quantity of light and moisture they get.

In order to avoid the fungus from developing on your healthy plants, you should remove infected plants and lost leaves from surrounding the plant’s region as soon as you see them.

Softwood Branches

You can also take Softwood Branches cuttings – these come from young branches of shrubbery that are not yet woody.

The word “softwood” refers to a stage of development in a deciduous woody plant that is neither green (fresh) nor woody (completely matured), but is somewhere in between.

Try bending a branch to check whether it snaps readily; if it does, your shrubbery is ready to utilize.

If it bends simply because it is flexible, it is too immature to be utilized since it will decay before roots. If there is no elasticity, it is too old, and rooting will take longer.

Softwood cuttings are best taken from April to June, particularly after it has rained or been irrigated.

Healthy shoots that aren’t too thin or thick will be easy to detect. Cut a segment of stem from at least one inch below a two to ten-inch long leaf node using pruning shears or a sharp knife.

Make sure there are at least three pairs of leaves on the leaf node. Make a diagonal incision; the greater the cut, the more surface area available for the formation of new roots.

To prevent disease transmission from sick plants to healthy plants, dip your sharp knife or pruning instrument in a solution of one part bleach to nine parts water.

After that, place the cuttings in a container packed with damp paper towels to keep the moisture in until you can go inside to plant them.

Take more cuttings than you think you’ll need since not all of them will root.

Remove the lowest part of leaves, then scrape some bark off the cutting’s edge if you’re feeling ambitious. Dip the cutting into the water and then into the rooting hormone, being care to cover the wounds left after removing the leaves.

Root hormone is more important when using softwoods than when using houseplant cuttings.

Plant your cuttings in pots filled with soilless potting mix, just planting them deep enough to support the stems and keep the plant erect. Use regular garden soil instead, since this will keep the cutting excessively damp and cause it to decay before it can begin roots.

After you’ve planted the cuttings, you may clip the leaves back to about half their original size. The leaves will still be able to undergo photosynthesis, but they will not transpire as much water.

To boost the humidity surrounding your cuttings, place your cuttings pots inside a plastic bag.

You may also buy a misting device to maintain your new plants at the proper moisture levels. A root check should be performed six weeks later.

If the container in which the cuttings are placed is tiny, you may see roots emerging through the drainage holes. If you don’t, pull on the plant gently.

If it sprouts immediately away, it isn’t ripe yet and should be replanted. If you find resistance, the plant is ready to be replanted.

Transplant your new shrubs to a larger pot using a fill combination of 20% perlite and 80% organic potting soil after the roots have established.

When watering your plants, be sure you use an organic liquid fertilizer made from kelp or seaweed. Plants should be “hardened off” gradually before being transplanted outdoors.

Stems of Hardwood

Cuttings from Stems of Hardwood are done after the tissue of the plant has become woody and is dormant.

The greatest time to take hardwood cuttings is in the late autumn, particularly after a fatal frost. It will also function in the late winter months.

You’ll want to look for plants that are strong, healthy, and flourishing in full sunshine. The ideal stems are those that aren’t excessively thick or thin.

The stems should have a girth of at least 14 or 12 inches and a length of four to eight inches. Cuttings should be taken a few inches away from the terminal bud.

A straight cut is used on the top of the stem end, just above a bud, while a diagonal cut is used on the bottom of the stem, just below the bud.

Remove the top of the shoot and discard it. Take more cuttings than you think you’ll need in case one doesn’t germinate.

Dip the ends of the cuttings in rooting powder and place them in a container filled with wet soilless potting medium with the stems spaced by two to six inches. Place the stems so that just approximately two buds are visible at the surface of the mixture.

The cuttings should then be watered and covered with a plastic bag before being placed in indirect sunlight.

Once the roots have developed, gently transplant the cutting to a bigger pot; do not plant straight into the landscape until the following season, since the plants will be stronger and larger.

Cuttings of leaves

There are several woody or herbaceous plants, including plenty of houseplants, that you can propagate using Cuttings of leaves. This method involves a stem and its leaf, or sometimes just part of a leaf which is then used to generate a new plant.

The instructions for the propagation using Cuttings of leaves are essentially identical as it is for hardwood and Softwood Branches cuttings, but these can be done anytime during the year.

Make sure you’re picking a fully matured, healthy leaf from a healthy plant.

Remove the leaf, as well as 1 to 12 inches of stem. Dip the cut in rooting hormone and plant it at a little slant into a damp soilless rooting mix (up to the bottom of the leaf).

After planting, give the plant plenty of water to help it settle into the potting mix.

As with any other cutting method, you’ll want to wrap the container in a plastic bag to assist boost the humidity, but keep it cold and out of direct sunshine. New roots will grow in four to six weeks, and your new plant will be ready for transplanting in a larger container.

Keep in mind that a single cutting might sometimes produce many plants. If this occurs, gently detach the young plants from their “parent” leaf and replace them in other pots.


When you divide a cluster of suckers, clump, or crown into smaller pieces, you are propagating by dividing.

Each section of the plant must have at least one bud. Otherwise, it will not spread.

Many perennials benefit from splitting since they lose energy as they age, and you’ll have additional plants to share with family, friends, or to use in your garden.

Although there are various methods for splitting perennials, the fundamentals are typically the same.

Perennial Plant Dividing

Perennials that bloom in the autumn should be divided in the spring, while perennials that bloom in the spring and summer should be divided in the fall.

Because the plants will need four to six weeks to establish roots before the ground freezes, you should undertake the autumn division early in the season. Early in the spring, you should also split your plants.

This is because plants prefer rainy, chilly weather since it allows them to establish roots before the warm weather arrives.

You should water your plant well for a couple of days before dividing it. After you’ve watered the parent plant, you’ll need to trim part of the leaves to keep it from losing too much moisture.

When it’s time to split, dig all the way around the plant and carefully pull it out of the ground.

If you come across a large ball of roots that you can’t lift, use a shovel to chop through it. You may peel apart the plant’s spreading roots if you locate them.

If you come across any plants with horizontal rhizomes, or subterranean stems, you may separate them with a sharp knife.

As soon as you cut the plant segment(s), place them in a container full of water to keep them from drying out while you continue your operation. Dig a hole as least as deep as the plant was initially planted in while you wait for the plants to soak.

Once the plant has established itself, you may add peat moss, old chicken dung, or organic compost to give it a boost.

Place the plant’s portion into the hole and fill it with dirt, being sure to water it well afterwards.

Apply a thick layer of mulch to keep the plant warm over the winter, but remember to remove part of it in the spring to keep it from growing too heated.

Let’s speak about some common home plants that you can propagate yourself using these ways now that you know how to perform some of the most basic methods of propagation.

Propagation of Jade Plants

Jade plants are succulents native to South Africa that are often used as houseplants.

Jades are evergreen plants with fleshy, round, smooth leaves growing in opposing pairs along the branches. It’s a slow-growing plant that will bloom once in a while if the circumstances are good.

Jade is a low-maintenance plant that needs little irrigation and may be grown easily.

Jade cuttings are simple to do, but they need time and care to root. Jade plants hate dampness since they are succulent. A portion of the stem or a leaf may be used to make cuttings from this plant.

Propagation of Snake Plants

Snake plants, also known as mother-in-tongue, law’s are a plant with sword-shaped, almost waxy, smooth leaves.

Snake plants are low-maintenance, making them ideal for practically any indoor setting. They’re also aesthetically appealing.

Dividing a snake plant is the quickest method to acquire a new one via propagation. This is due to the fact that the plant develops through rhizomes, which clump together and increase as the plant matures.

Cutting methods may also be used, although they will not be as rapid as the division approach.

Propagating Rubber Plants

Rubber plants are a sturdy and adaptable houseplant. Rubber tree propagation is simple, and you’ll have lots of seedlings to give to family and friends.

Rubber plants grow to be rather tall, therefore the indoor rubber tree will need to be trimmed from time to time. Don’t throw away the cuttings after trimming; instead, utilize them to reproduce your plant.

Plant Propagation at ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ

ZZ plants are slow-growing and dependable performers — they’ll even stick with you if you abuse them. ZZ plants are simple to propagate, although they may take up to nine months to root.

ZZ plants are native to Africa’s southeast coast and have long been popular houseplants.

The division procedure is required to propagate ZZ plants. Because the ZZ plant develops new rhizomes slowly, and removing them regularly would harm the parent plant, this procedure can only be used once in a while.

You can also go about doing Cuttings of leaves with this plant – this is a faster option since the plants grow quicker than the rhizomes.

Propagation of Spider Plants

It’s as simple as it gets to propagate spiderettes (spider plant babies) from an established spider plant.

Spider plants get its name because their flowing, large leaves, which resemble legs, make them seem like spiders as they’re developing.

Cutting off the knob-like protrusions and small roots from the bottom of each spiderette is a good way to propagate your spider plant. The protrusions may then be propagated in either water or soil.

Propagation of Pothos Plants

Pothos plants are another popular houseplant due to their lack of sensitivity to water, fertilizer, or light. All you have to do to propagate your pothos plant is chop off the node on the stem.

Pothos propagation starts at the stem’s root nodes, just below the branch or leaf junctures. The pothos plant’s small bumps on the stem are essential for propagation.

Propagation of Prayer Plants

Low light conditions are not a problem for prayer plants. It does, however, thrive in strong, indirect sunshine.

To grow, the prayer plant needs well-drained soil and high humidity. It’s important to keep them wet but not soggy.

From spring until autumn, you should hydrate your prayer plant with warm water and feed it with an all-purpose fertilizer every two weeks.

To propagate your prayer plant, you should repot it in early spring, since this is when division may be done.

You may also take stem cuttings in the early summer and spring, but you’ll want to take them from the nodes closest to the stem’s bottom.

Plant Propagation in Polka Dots

Polka-dot plants may be propagated at any time of year. Poloka-dot plants have leaves that are abundantly speckled with either white or pink dots on a dark green leaf backdrop for those who are unfamiliar with them.

Simply take tip cuttings approximately four inches long and remove the leaves from the bottom half of the stem to generate new plants from a parent plant.

The cuttings will then be placed in coarse potting soil, such as cactus mix, and kept wet.

Tip cutting is identical to stem cutting, except that instead of cutting a section of the stem, you remove a tiny amount of the stem and the plant’s apex or plant tip.

To begin, choose a portion of stem with a healthy crown of leaves at the end. The lower leaves will be gently removed, leaving a portion of bare stem to place into the propagation media.

Propagation of Umbrella Plants

The umbrella tree is a huge and appealing accent that can be used in any environment.

Cuttings from an umbrella plant may be used to construct a collection of attractive plants for home décor and presents at a low cost.

To prevent germs from spreading to your umbrella plants, wipe a sharp knife with alcohol before using it to propagate them.

After that, trim a stem at the plant’s base and cover it in a moist paper towel. Then, to limit the quantity of moisture lost during the roots process, cut each leaf in half horizontally.

Last Thoughts

You now have a wealth of information to assist you in getting started with plant propagation. Remember that stem cutting, leaf cutting, division, and a variety of other methods may be used to accomplish this.

Each plant benefits from various propagation methods, so do your homework before you go ahead and stem cut a plant that might benefit from division.

Use the information we’ve provided to walk you through the process of propagating common houseplants. Propagating is an excellent method to increase the number of plants you have in your home, yard, or to give to family and friends.

Hopefully, this tutorial has given you some inspiration for what you can do with your existing plants so you don’t have to spend a lot of money on new ones.

The “propagating house plants” is a guide that will help you to propagate your house plants. The guide includes information on how to take cuttings, layering, and more.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long should propagated roots be before planting?

A: Propagated roots should be at least 12 long before planting.

How do you encourage the roots to grow from cuttings?

A: If your plants are in a pot, it is best to put them outside for the summer. If you want roots to grow from cuttings and not just stems, either plant new plants or give them some soil that has been mixed with sand or perlite.

How do Beginners propagate plants?

A: For propagating plants to start growing, you will need a pot with drainage holes in its bottom. Fill this pot 3/4 of the way full with soil and put or plant your new seeds inside it. Make sure that they are spaced out evenly around the surface area of the pot so theres not too much room between them.

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Emil Schoene

Born and raised in Austin, TX I come from a background of home renovation. By helping my family in my younger years with their construction business, I learned the ropes quickly and as I grew it became my passion that I still do today. Looking to share my knowledge with others. I invite you to leave comments on any post as I know you will have questions that you are not finding anywhere else.

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